Hi sew lover! Happy weekend. So from December 2nd 2019 to December 14th, 2019 I will be giving a class on Computer Patterndrafting for Beginners. For those not familar with the term, Computer Patterndrafting is the a patterndrafting technique that involves drafting patterns with the use of a computer system. These patterns are drafted using …
Hi sewlover! It’s been ages!. Work has been so crazy lately that I barely have time to come here. Then there is also the fact that I’m currently looking for a physical location for TheQEffectz. Yes! Sooner rather than later, TheQEffectz is going to have a registered location where you can come for all your …
Hi Sew lover!
Welcome to today’s free tutorial- How to make a wrap cape jumpsuit as requested by Nneamaka. Thank you so much for leaving a request on our platform.
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Now to today’s project
- About the outfit:
- 1. Modifying the basic bodice block:
- 2. Modifying the basic trousers pattern:
- 3. Modifying the Sleeve pattern:
- 4. Drafting the Waistband:
- 5. Drafting the rope pattern:
- GET TRAINED ON OUR AMAZING FASHION DESIGNING COURSES.
So today we are going to look at how to make this wrap cape jumpsuit and as always, we will begin by first understanding the outfit. This way, we will be able to correctly draft out a pattern for it.
About the outfit:
- The jumpsuit consist of a bodice,waist band and trousers
- The bodice and sleeve of the jumpsuit are without shoulders, i.e off-the-shoulder
- The bodice is wrapped at the front.
- The neckline of the bodice is enhanced by a cape.
- The trousers part of the outfit which does not extend to the ankle but stops at the calf area of the legs instead, is ‘penciled’ at the hem
- The sleeves which are pleated or gathered at the bottom stops at the elbow.
- The jumpsuit has side pockets
So now we have a solid idea of what the outfit is generally about, we can now proceed to draft out a pattern for it. Please note that this tutorial is for Intermediates & Experts only. To see tutorials for beginners, please visit here or make a sew request now.
To draft out a pattern for this outfit, you will need:
- An existing knowledge of pattern-drafting: So if you do not know how to draft patterns at all, please visit here to take our pattern-drafting course for beginners. For N3,000/ $8.50, you will learn how to draft a basic bodice, skirt and trousers block and also how to modify these blocks to patterns.
- Basic Bodice Block (Don’t know how to draft a basic bodice block, please click here)
- Basic Trousers Block (Don’t know how to draft a basic bodice block, please click here )
- Sleeve pattern (Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern, please click here)
- Pattern papers
- Patterndrafting tools e.g Straight ruler, French Curves, Hip curve, Pen, Pencil & Eraser
- Paper glue, cellotape or masking tape
Drafting a pattern for this outfit will require us to modify the basic bodice block, pants and sleeves that we already have since we are assuming that they were drafted using either standard body measurements or custom body measurements.
Thus this section will be divided into:
- Modifying the basic bodice block
- Modifying the basic trousers block
- Drafting the pockets pattern
- Modifying the sleeve pattern
- Drafting the waistband pattern
- Drafting the rope pattern
1. Modifying the basic bodice block:
This section will be subdivided into (a)Modifying the front piece (b) Modifying the back piece
(a) Modifying the front piece: To modify the front piece, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and trace only the front piece of your bodice block. The centre front line of the front piece must tally with the folded end of your paper. Trace and then cut.
When you open up your front piece, it will look like this:
Step 2: Fold back the front piece into equal halves and measure 3 inches from the bottom and mark.
Step 3: Open up your front piece and draw a horizontal line across the bodice.
Step 4: Slash through the line.
Note: Do not discard the slashed piece. Keep aside as this will serve as your waistband
Step 5: Duplicate the new front piece to create two front pieces.
Step 6: Measure 2.5 inches from the shoulders of both pieces in opposite directions as shown below and mark
Step 7: Using your french curve ruler, draw two inverted and concave curves that are 3.5-4 inches apart from the point on the armhole to the side hem of the bodices. Do this on both front pieces but in opposite directions.
This will serve as the cape.
Step 8: Connect your sleeve pattern to the armhole of the sleeve and measure 2.5 inches from the midpoint of the sleeve and on both sides of the armscye as shown below:
Step 9: Replicate your curves on the sleeve as well to extend the cape.
Step 10: Fold back both front pieces into equal halves and insert regular darts.
Step 11: Unfold the front pieces and slash through the curves. When done, the bodice will look like this:
Step 12: Redraft the cape and bodice in fresh pattern papers. Don’t forget to include seam allowances of 0.6cm around all the sides of the bodice and cape except the sides of the bodice. This should consist of 2.5-4cm depending on the size of the dart and estimated amount of ease.
(b) Modifying the Back pieces: To modify the back piece of the block, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Because this jumpsuit was obviously made from a non-stretch fabric, it will need back pieces that can use zipper. Thus we will have to insert a zip allowance to the back piece. To do this, fold your pattern paper into equal halves. Unlike step 1 in Modifying the front pieces, place the centre back line of the back bodice block 1-1.5 inches away from the folded line of the pattern paper. Trace all sides and cut.
The extra space or allowance created will serve as zip allowance.
Step 2: Because this outfit is a jumpsuit( i.e a bodice connected to trousers at the waist), we will need to make sure that when a zipper is attached at the centre back, it does not bulge. To do this, measure 1cm i.e 0.5inch away from the centre back piece of the back piece and also from the zip allowance. Add the same value to the sides of the back piece at the waistline.
Step 3: Retrace your lines as shown
And then cut through the centre back to create two copies of the back piece.
Step 4: Measure 3 inches upwards from the waistline and mark. Then Repeat step 6 in Modifying the front piece but unlike it, measure 3 inches instead
Step 5: Repeat Step 7-11 in Modifying the front piece. But unlike those stages, your curves should not be inverted and concave to create the cape.
Step 6: Redraft in a fresh pattern paper and include seam allowances as already explained above.
When done, your back pieces will look like these.
2. Modifying the basic trousers pattern:
Now that we are done modifying the basic bodice, we will proceed to the lower part of the garment which consist of a basic trousers block. Just like the basic bodice block, a basic trousers block also consist of a front and back piece, thus this section will be subdivided into: (a) Modifying the front piece (b) Drafting the pockets (c) Modifying the basic piece
(a) Modifying the Trousers’ front piece: From the image of the outfit, you can see that the trousers has side front pockets
This thus requires that the trousers front piece should be adjusted to accommodate these pockets.
Another important fact that should be noticed about the outfit is how penciled the trousers are. Which brings me to a very interesting subject in patterndrafting that is rarely discussed- Fabrics!.
It is not enough to know how to draft patterns for various designs and styles, it is very essential to understand the fabrics that are intended to be used for such patterns.
Here is a quote by Winifred Aldrich from Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s wear.
Fabric quality: New technologies have also expanded the range of fabrics available to a designer. The aesthetic qualities of a fabric are often the inspiration which initiates a design. However, in creating a new shape a designer has to consider ﬁve crucial fabric qualities which could realize or destroy it. These are: weight, thickness, shear, drape and stretch.Whilst large companies have testing procedures that can determine technical measures, the designer often has to make instant judgements and therefore has to be able to estimate the qualities of a fabric and idealize the ﬁnal effect.
Shape: Whilst recognizing the crucial role that fabric choice plays in the realization of design, its success rests with the quality of the pattern cutting. The domination of stretch fabrics in the mass market have meant an expansion of simple ﬂat pattern cutting techniques which rely on the stretch in the fabric to create the body shape. But stretch fabrics can be married with form cutting to give quite different effects. Bias cutting adds to the drape quality of fabrics, and the use of layers can affect the weight and thickness of the design. Form cutting of close ﬁtting garments in fabrics without sheer or drape, such as stiff silks, requires great skill.
Now the reason I brought this up is not to bore you but to convey how important it is to recognize the fabric used for any given design or style. Knowing this will share more light on how achievable the style or design is, since fabrics are one of the determining factor for fitting in pattern drafting.
So as we can see, the outfit’s trousers are very penciled. Thus, if a non-stretch fabric was used to make the outfit, it will be impossible for the legs to pass through the pants without a tear. Therefore, there has to be a form of opening. And since there is no opening from what we can see from the image, it therefore means that a zipper was attached to the side seams at the hem.
Thus, both the front and back pieces of the trousers must be modified to accommodate for a zip allowance at the calf.
Therefore to modify the front piece of the trousers block, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Measure 3 inches from the side of the front piece towards the centre front and mark.
Step 2: Measure 6.5inches also from the side down towards the ankle of the trousers and mark
Step 3: Using your french curve, draw a curve to join these points together as shown.
Also make a box extended about 8-9 inches long.
Step 4: From the centre front, measure your bust-to-bust measurement or that of a clients and mark.
Step 5: Insert a dart that is 4 inches long and 1 inche wide. Do not forget to add back the dart size to the side of the trousers at the waistline.
Step 6: At the hem of the front piece, measure 2 inches upwards and mark.
Draw a horizontal line across this line and slash off
Step 7: Measure 4 inches from the new hemline and 1 inch forward.
Step 8: Draw a box using this measurement and you’ll have your zip allowance attached to the calf of the pants.
Step 9: Fold a new pattern paper into equal halves and place your front piece on it. Trace all sides except the pocket lines and add seam allowances of 0.6cm on all sides except the sides. The sides should have seam allowances of 2.5cm instead to accommodate for stitch and ease.
Then cut. Your trousers front pieces should look like these:
(b) Drafting the pocket pieces: To draft the pocket pieces, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Get a new pattern paper. Place your trousers block with the pocket lines on it and trace out the pocket lines.
When done, it should look like this:
Step 2: Separate the pieces as thus:
Step 3: Add seam allowances around the pocket pieces and your pocket pattern pieces is complete
Don’t forget to include your label quantity and instructions where necessary
(c) Modifying the Trousers Back piece: To modify the trouser’s back piece, please follow the steps below
Step 1: From the Centre Back, measure 0.5inch towards the sides and mark.
Step 2: Readjust the Centre Back line accordingly
Step 3: From the new centre back line, measure your half of your bust-to-bust point or that of a client’s and mark.
Step 4: Insert your regular back dart of 5.5 inches
Don’t forget to add the 1 inch dart back to the side of the back piece
Step 5: At the new Centre Back line, measure 1 inch and 7 inches long and mark
This will serve as the zip allowance.
Step 6: Repeat Step 6-9 in Modifying the Trousers’ front piece
When done your back pieces with their required seam allowances will look like these
3. Modifying the Sleeve pattern:
When dissecting the outfit, we mentioned that the sleeve of the outfit was gathered or pleated at the bottom. Therefore we will need to modify the basic sleeve pattern to make the above possible. To modify the basic sleeve pattern, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Take out the slashed sleeve pattern you have left. Measure the length of your biceps and mark
Step 2: Draw a horizontal line across the line and slash. Donot discard the slashed piece as it will serve as the sleeve band.
Step 3: Draw several vertical style lines on the sleeve. Slash through these style lines but do not slash completely. Leave about 0.5 inch at the top.
Step 4: Place your slashed piece on a new pattern paper and spread.
Step 5: Trace out the new sleeve pattern and add seam allowances around it.
Do the same for the band.
When you gather the bottom of the sleeve, it will look like this
4. Drafting the Waistband:
So do you remember the 3 inches that was slashed away from the waistline of the front and back pieces?
Bring them to the table and add seam allowances around them.
When done, they will look like these:
5. Drafting the rope pattern:
The rope pattern should be (waist circumference x 2) in length and 5 inches width.
And that concludes our pattern-drafting tutorial for the day.
This is total pattern for the front of the garment
This is the total back pattern for the garment
So that’s it guys.
I want to thank you so much for hanging with me on today’s tutorial. I hope the tutorial was easy to understand. Remember, if you have any question, please feel free to ask on the comment box below.
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Request for E-Patterns
So because I’ve discovered that I love drafting patterns so much, I’ve opened the doors for anyone to request for E-patterns.
E-patterns are digital sewing patterns that are drafted in real life custom or standard body measurements.
So if you will love to have this style of outfit or any other design that you prefer in your size or a family’s/friend’s or client’s, feel free to leave your request for the E-pattern here. Simply specify your size and a price quota for the e-pattern will be sent to you. Upon payment, you will have the E-pattern delivered to your email inbox.
You can download free E-patterns for other designs here
Don’t know what an E-pattern is and want to learn all about it? Do you want to learn how to draft digital sewing patterns electronically? Then take TheQEffectz E-pattern Drafting and Design course here
So till next time sewlover, Kisses!
“If ye shall ask anything in my name, I will do it” -John 14:14
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Hi Sewlover! Okay, so while sewing this outfit, I noticed some errors in the patterns and I’ve corrected them. So please look through the tutorial again and don’t fail to leave any questions you may have about it.
It was an outfit I chose from a lot of others to make for myself for a wedding I’ll be attending tomorrow. I’ll be sharing the pattern-drafting aspect of the outfit with you guys today. If you want to see the sewing tutorial free of charge, then make sure you leave a comment on the comment box below. I”ll like to have about atleast 10 beautiful comments from 10 remarkable people before I’ll grant such a request.
My version in the wedding’s color theme of burgundy & butter gold
Also made a little something for My Prince #winks
Now to the main event
About the outfit
As always, before we begin, I’ll like us to dissect the outfit:
Wondering why I like dissecting outfits and designs? lolx, well it helps me understand the outfit alot better. So feel free to pen down what you notice as you look at the outfit.
Want to learn how to easily dissect styles and outfits so that you can make them for yourself or clients? Or so that you can always stop looking for help from others? Then follow me! or Get mentored by me!
- The outfit is clearly a gown that consists of a breast padded bodice and a six pieces skirt. Although the latter can also pass for a Mermaid skirt
- The upper bodice consists of ruffle sleeves and cape. While the ruffles stretch from the right of the upper bust level to the back the cape extends asymmetrically from one side of the shoulder to the armhole level.
- At the waist, is a high-low peplum boxed with inverted pleats
- The outfit was made from a patterned material, aka ankara and a solid colored material, preferably satin.
- The outfit has a three-quarter net sleeve that is cuffed at the wrist.
- The ruffles consist of a blend of the patterned material and satin.
These are my observations. If you noticed or have more, please kindly share them on the comment box.
By the way, please do note that this tutorial is for Advert sewists. As an intermediate sewist, you can choose to attempt this.
To draft out a pattern for this outfit, you will need the following:
1..Basic Blocks: The relevant blocks for this outfits include A basic bodce block, a Skirt block and A Sleeve pattern. Don’t know how to draft any of these blocks using your body measurements or that of a clients? Then sign up for TheQEffectz Public or Private Classes.
2. Pattern papers
3. Tracing papers
4. Markers, Pen, Pencil and Eraser
5. Straight ruler
6. French curves
7. Body measurements. These include:
- Bust point: The distance between the shoulder and tip of the bust
- Bust to Bust = This is the distance between the tip of one bust to the tip of the other
- Under bust length= This is the distance between the bust point and under the bust
- Thigh circumference= This is the known as the girth of the thigh
- Waist circumference= This is the known as the girth of the thigh
Making a pattern for this outfit will involve modifying the basic bodice block and skirt block. Thus, the procedures will be divided into:
1..Modifying the basic bodice block: This section will be divided into (a) Making the front bodice (b) Making the back pieces
(a) Making the front bodice: To make the front pieces, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Fold your pattern papers into equal halves and draft out the front piece
Step 2: When done, duplicate the front piece. i.e make an exact copy of it.
Name one the patterned fabric you plan to use and the other the solid colored fabric to differentiate them. In this case I named mine “Ankara” and “Satin”
Step 3: Draft your breast padded princess seam on the satin and ankara fabric using a very light pen or pencil or do this at the wrong side of the paper.
To learn more on how to insert breast padded priness seams, please visit here
Step 4: Draw two asymmetric curves from the tip of the shoulder and armhole respectively from left to right on the “Satin piece. The distance between both curves at the armhole should be 5 inches.
Step 5: Replicate the bottom curve on the “Ankara piece”
Step 6: Place the Satin piece on the Ankara piece and mark the center point of the top asymmetric line. Make sure the point is also visible on the ankara piece.
Step 7: Then adjust the neckline of the “Ankara” piece as shown below
Step 8: Slash off the shaded parts of the front pieces
Step 9: For the cape, make sure to fold the dart lines when drafting like this:
Step 10: Add seam allowances to all your pieces. When done, your Satin and Ankara front piece will look like this:
For the sides of bodice, i like to include the same amount of dart/princess seam and an additional 1 inch(incase I add more weight in the future or for when I decide to give out the outfit to a larger size person). For other sides, I like to include a seam allowance of 1 cm.
Step 11(optional): You can go on to include instructions on the pieces if you want your work to look more professional or if your intention is to give the work to someone else(i.e contractor or employee) to sew for you
2. Making the back pieces: This section involves:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and place your back bodice block and trace 1 inch away from the folded side.
This 1 inch will serve as zip allowance.
Step 2: At the waistline, measure 0.5 inch from CB and the same value at the zip allowance and the sides.
Step 3: Adjust the CB line, zip allowance and side accordingly.
This is to prevent the zip that will be attached at the CB from bulging out.
When done, your backpieces will look like this:
Step 4: You can decide to include a cape for your back pieces or not. The choice is yours. If you want to include a back cape, draw an asymmetric line from the tip of the shoulder of the right back piece to the CB line.
Step 5: Repeat step 5 in Making the front piece above
When done, your backpiece will look like this
Step 6: Insert your princess seam from the shoulder
Step 6: Repeat Step 6 in Making the front piece and then trace your pattern on your tracing paper. Don’t forget to include seam allowance
When done, your back pattern will look like this:
And that is it. Pattern for the bodice of the outfit.
We will now proceed to the skirt part
2. Modifying the skirt block. This is literally similar to the skirt block. However, I’ll be using the backpieces of the skirt block to elucidate. Kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper, and place your skirt on it 1.5 inches away from the folded line. Trace all the sides.
Step 2: Adjust the zip allowance just like the back bodice above
Step 3: Place the back pieces on top a new paper and trace all the sides.
Step 4: At the thigh level, measure 1/4 of thigh measurement and mark.
Step 5: Extend the length of the skirt to the full length of skirts. Extend the side from the knee level by 5-7 inches long
Also include a hem distance of 1″ -1.5 inches and adjust the hem of the skirt accordingly.
Step 6: If your intention is to make a mermaid skirt instead( like me), you can proceed to adjusting your front pieces of the skirt accordingly. But if your intention is to slash your skirt pattern further into six pieces, please click here to learn how.
3. Drafting the High-low pleated peplum: To do this, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Cut out a pattern paper of (1/2 of waist girth- 1/8 of waist girth) in width and 10 inches in length
Step 2: Make out several slash points on the paper.(click here to learn more about Slash & Spread)
Then draw an asymmetric curve from right to left. The curve should begin at 4 inches
Step 3: Then slash off the leftovers at the bottom and the slash points. Leave about 0.5cm at the top unslashed at your slash points(see here to learn more)
Step 4: Then Spread and readjust accordingly
Step 5: Mark out where you want your pleats and pleat accordingly
4. Drafting the Sleeve Pattern: See here to learn how to draft a sleeve pattern
When done, your sleeve pattern will look like this
Adjust the sleeve following these steps:
Step 1: Measure the armhole of your bodice including the cape at the front piece
Step 2: Mark these measurements from the bottom of the sleeve to the top
Step 3: Since the sleeve of the outfit is going to be a net sleeve, you will need a band around the top and cuff of the sleeve. Therefore to cut a band pattern for the top and bottom of the sleeve.
For the top, measure 3 inches from the top and mark
Replicate the curve at the top
Step 4: Get a new pattern paper and trace the curves
Step 5: Add seam allowances of 1cm around the bands and sleeve and then cut. When done, your new sleeve pattern will look like this:
5. Drafting the ruffles: Cut out a pattern paper about twice the distance between the upper bust level at the front piece and the back piece.
Don’t forget to include seam allowances around the strip for hemming.
So that’s it guys!.
Remember you can see how this style is sewn for free by simply leaving a comment of your thoughts about the outfit or to simply share your own ideas at the comment box below.
Interested in learning how to sew from scratch instead? then simply sign up for TheQeffectz public class which is opened round the year or our private class for beginner and intermediates.. We have so many options to help you.
Interested in getting a tutorial for a particular design and style? then simply visit here to make a sew request now.
So till next time, when i’ll be showing you the outfit, kisses!
No one can live the Christian life or do God’s work without the Holy Spirit, for it’s written, “…Not by might, nor by power, but by my spirit, saith the LORD of hosts”Zechariah 4:6
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