Welcome to this week’s free tutorial- How to draft a breast-padded blouse pattern with Orgami Accordion Sleeves
Hi Sew lover, Happy Nigerian Independence in arrears! I hope you had a nice holiday yesterday. I know I did. Anyway, I’m here to briefly inform you that I will be giving a free pattern-drafting and sewing class from October 10th to October 12th on Corset-making in TheQEffectz Sew community. So if you are not …
Hi sewlover! It’s been ages!. Work has been so crazy lately that I barely have time to come here. Then there is also the fact that I’m currently looking for a physical location for TheQEffectz. Yes! Sooner rather than later, TheQEffectz is going to have a registered location where you can come for all your …
Hi Sew lover!
Welcome to today’s free tutorial- How to make a wrap cape jumpsuit as requested by Nneamaka. Thank you so much for leaving a request on our platform.
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Now to today’s project
- About the outfit:
- 1. Modifying the basic bodice block:
- 2. Modifying the basic trousers pattern:
- 3. Modifying the Sleeve pattern:
- 4. Drafting the Waistband:
- 5. Drafting the rope pattern:
- GET TRAINED ON OUR AMAZING FASHION DESIGNING COURSES.
So today we are going to look at how to make this wrap cape jumpsuit and as always, we will begin by first understanding the outfit. This way, we will be able to correctly draft out a pattern for it.
About the outfit:
- The jumpsuit consist of a bodice,waist band and trousers
- The bodice and sleeve of the jumpsuit are without shoulders, i.e off-the-shoulder
- The bodice is wrapped at the front.
- The neckline of the bodice is enhanced by a cape.
- The trousers part of the outfit which does not extend to the ankle but stops at the calf area of the legs instead, is ‘penciled’ at the hem
- The sleeves which are pleated or gathered at the bottom stops at the elbow.
- The jumpsuit has side pockets
So now we have a solid idea of what the outfit is generally about, we can now proceed to draft out a pattern for it. Please note that this tutorial is for Intermediates & Experts only. To see tutorials for beginners, please visit here or make a sew request now.
To draft out a pattern for this outfit, you will need:
- An existing knowledge of pattern-drafting: So if you do not know how to draft patterns at all, please visit here to take our pattern-drafting course for beginners. For N3,000/ $8.50, you will learn how to draft a basic bodice, skirt and trousers block and also how to modify these blocks to patterns.
- Basic Bodice Block (Don’t know how to draft a basic bodice block, please click here)
- Basic Trousers Block (Don’t know how to draft a basic bodice block, please click here )
- Sleeve pattern (Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern, please click here)
- Pattern papers
- Patterndrafting tools e.g Straight ruler, French Curves, Hip curve, Pen, Pencil & Eraser
- Paper glue, cellotape or masking tape
Drafting a pattern for this outfit will require us to modify the basic bodice block, pants and sleeves that we already have since we are assuming that they were drafted using either standard body measurements or custom body measurements.
Thus this section will be divided into:
- Modifying the basic bodice block
- Modifying the basic trousers block
- Drafting the pockets pattern
- Modifying the sleeve pattern
- Drafting the waistband pattern
- Drafting the rope pattern
1. Modifying the basic bodice block:
This section will be subdivided into (a)Modifying the front piece (b) Modifying the back piece
(a) Modifying the front piece: To modify the front piece, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and trace only the front piece of your bodice block. The centre front line of the front piece must tally with the folded end of your paper. Trace and then cut.
When you open up your front piece, it will look like this:
Step 2: Fold back the front piece into equal halves and measure 3 inches from the bottom and mark.
Step 3: Open up your front piece and draw a horizontal line across the bodice.
Step 4: Slash through the line.
Note: Do not discard the slashed piece. Keep aside as this will serve as your waistband
Step 5: Duplicate the new front piece to create two front pieces.
Step 6: Measure 2.5 inches from the shoulders of both pieces in opposite directions as shown below and mark
Step 7: Using your french curve ruler, draw two inverted and concave curves that are 3.5-4 inches apart from the point on the armhole to the side hem of the bodices. Do this on both front pieces but in opposite directions.
This will serve as the cape.
Step 8: Connect your sleeve pattern to the armhole of the sleeve and measure 2.5 inches from the midpoint of the sleeve and on both sides of the armscye as shown below:
Step 9: Replicate your curves on the sleeve as well to extend the cape.
Step 10: Fold back both front pieces into equal halves and insert regular darts.
Step 11: Unfold the front pieces and slash through the curves. When done, the bodice will look like this:
Step 12: Redraft the cape and bodice in fresh pattern papers. Don’t forget to include seam allowances of 0.6cm around all the sides of the bodice and cape except the sides of the bodice. This should consist of 2.5-4cm depending on the size of the dart and estimated amount of ease.
(b) Modifying the Back pieces: To modify the back piece of the block, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Because this jumpsuit was obviously made from a non-stretch fabric, it will need back pieces that can use zipper. Thus we will have to insert a zip allowance to the back piece. To do this, fold your pattern paper into equal halves. Unlike step 1 in Modifying the front pieces, place the centre back line of the back bodice block 1-1.5 inches away from the folded line of the pattern paper. Trace all sides and cut.
The extra space or allowance created will serve as zip allowance.
Step 2: Because this outfit is a jumpsuit( i.e a bodice connected to trousers at the waist), we will need to make sure that when a zipper is attached at the centre back, it does not bulge. To do this, measure 1cm i.e 0.5inch away from the centre back piece of the back piece and also from the zip allowance. Add the same value to the sides of the back piece at the waistline.
Step 3: Retrace your lines as shown
And then cut through the centre back to create two copies of the back piece.
Step 4: Measure 3 inches upwards from the waistline and mark. Then Repeat step 6 in Modifying the front piece but unlike it, measure 3 inches instead
Step 5: Repeat Step 7-11 in Modifying the front piece. But unlike those stages, your curves should not be inverted and concave to create the cape.
Step 6: Redraft in a fresh pattern paper and include seam allowances as already explained above.
When done, your back pieces will look like these.
2. Modifying the basic trousers pattern:
Now that we are done modifying the basic bodice, we will proceed to the lower part of the garment which consist of a basic trousers block. Just like the basic bodice block, a basic trousers block also consist of a front and back piece, thus this section will be subdivided into: (a) Modifying the front piece (b) Drafting the pockets (c) Modifying the basic piece
(a) Modifying the Trousers’ front piece: From the image of the outfit, you can see that the trousers has side front pockets
This thus requires that the trousers front piece should be adjusted to accommodate these pockets.
Another important fact that should be noticed about the outfit is how penciled the trousers are. Which brings me to a very interesting subject in patterndrafting that is rarely discussed- Fabrics!.
It is not enough to know how to draft patterns for various designs and styles, it is very essential to understand the fabrics that are intended to be used for such patterns.
Here is a quote by Winifred Aldrich from Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s wear.
Fabric quality: New technologies have also expanded the range of fabrics available to a designer. The aesthetic qualities of a fabric are often the inspiration which initiates a design. However, in creating a new shape a designer has to consider ﬁve crucial fabric qualities which could realize or destroy it. These are: weight, thickness, shear, drape and stretch.Whilst large companies have testing procedures that can determine technical measures, the designer often has to make instant judgements and therefore has to be able to estimate the qualities of a fabric and idealize the ﬁnal effect.
Shape: Whilst recognizing the crucial role that fabric choice plays in the realization of design, its success rests with the quality of the pattern cutting. The domination of stretch fabrics in the mass market have meant an expansion of simple ﬂat pattern cutting techniques which rely on the stretch in the fabric to create the body shape. But stretch fabrics can be married with form cutting to give quite different effects. Bias cutting adds to the drape quality of fabrics, and the use of layers can affect the weight and thickness of the design. Form cutting of close ﬁtting garments in fabrics without sheer or drape, such as stiff silks, requires great skill.
Now the reason I brought this up is not to bore you but to convey how important it is to recognize the fabric used for any given design or style. Knowing this will share more light on how achievable the style or design is, since fabrics are one of the determining factor for fitting in pattern drafting.
So as we can see, the outfit’s trousers are very penciled. Thus, if a non-stretch fabric was used to make the outfit, it will be impossible for the legs to pass through the pants without a tear. Therefore, there has to be a form of opening. And since there is no opening from what we can see from the image, it therefore means that a zipper was attached to the side seams at the hem.
Thus, both the front and back pieces of the trousers must be modified to accommodate for a zip allowance at the calf.
Therefore to modify the front piece of the trousers block, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Measure 3 inches from the side of the front piece towards the centre front and mark.
Step 2: Measure 6.5inches also from the side down towards the ankle of the trousers and mark
Step 3: Using your french curve, draw a curve to join these points together as shown.
Also make a box extended about 8-9 inches long.
Step 4: From the centre front, measure your bust-to-bust measurement or that of a clients and mark.
Step 5: Insert a dart that is 4 inches long and 1 inche wide. Do not forget to add back the dart size to the side of the trousers at the waistline.
Step 6: At the hem of the front piece, measure 2 inches upwards and mark.
Draw a horizontal line across this line and slash off
Step 7: Measure 4 inches from the new hemline and 1 inch forward.
Step 8: Draw a box using this measurement and you’ll have your zip allowance attached to the calf of the pants.
Step 9: Fold a new pattern paper into equal halves and place your front piece on it. Trace all sides except the pocket lines and add seam allowances of 0.6cm on all sides except the sides. The sides should have seam allowances of 2.5cm instead to accommodate for stitch and ease.
Then cut. Your trousers front pieces should look like these:
(b) Drafting the pocket pieces: To draft the pocket pieces, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Get a new pattern paper. Place your trousers block with the pocket lines on it and trace out the pocket lines.
When done, it should look like this:
Step 2: Separate the pieces as thus:
Step 3: Add seam allowances around the pocket pieces and your pocket pattern pieces is complete
Don’t forget to include your label quantity and instructions where necessary
(c) Modifying the Trousers Back piece: To modify the trouser’s back piece, please follow the steps below
Step 1: From the Centre Back, measure 0.5inch towards the sides and mark.
Step 2: Readjust the Centre Back line accordingly
Step 3: From the new centre back line, measure your half of your bust-to-bust point or that of a client’s and mark.
Step 4: Insert your regular back dart of 5.5 inches
Don’t forget to add the 1 inch dart back to the side of the back piece
Step 5: At the new Centre Back line, measure 1 inch and 7 inches long and mark
This will serve as the zip allowance.
Step 6: Repeat Step 6-9 in Modifying the Trousers’ front piece
When done your back pieces with their required seam allowances will look like these
3. Modifying the Sleeve pattern:
When dissecting the outfit, we mentioned that the sleeve of the outfit was gathered or pleated at the bottom. Therefore we will need to modify the basic sleeve pattern to make the above possible. To modify the basic sleeve pattern, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Take out the slashed sleeve pattern you have left. Measure the length of your biceps and mark
Step 2: Draw a horizontal line across the line and slash. Donot discard the slashed piece as it will serve as the sleeve band.
Step 3: Draw several vertical style lines on the sleeve. Slash through these style lines but do not slash completely. Leave about 0.5 inch at the top.
Step 4: Place your slashed piece on a new pattern paper and spread.
Step 5: Trace out the new sleeve pattern and add seam allowances around it.
Do the same for the band.
When you gather the bottom of the sleeve, it will look like this
4. Drafting the Waistband:
So do you remember the 3 inches that was slashed away from the waistline of the front and back pieces?
Bring them to the table and add seam allowances around them.
When done, they will look like these:
5. Drafting the rope pattern:
The rope pattern should be (waist circumference x 2) in length and 5 inches width.
And that concludes our pattern-drafting tutorial for the day.
This is total pattern for the front of the garment
This is the total back pattern for the garment
So that’s it guys.
I want to thank you so much for hanging with me on today’s tutorial. I hope the tutorial was easy to understand. Remember, if you have any question, please feel free to ask on the comment box below.
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Request for E-Patterns
So because I’ve discovered that I love drafting patterns so much, I’ve opened the doors for anyone to request for E-patterns.
E-patterns are digital sewing patterns that are drafted in real life custom or standard body measurements.
So if you will love to have this style of outfit or any other design that you prefer in your size or a family’s/friend’s or client’s, feel free to leave your request for the E-pattern here. Simply specify your size and a price quota for the e-pattern will be sent to you. Upon payment, you will have the E-pattern delivered to your email inbox.
You can download free E-patterns for other designs here
Don’t know what an E-pattern is and want to learn all about it? Do you want to learn how to draft digital sewing patterns electronically? Then take TheQEffectz E-pattern Drafting and Design course here
So till next time sewlover, Kisses!
“If ye shall ask anything in my name, I will do it” -John 14:14