Hi sew lover!
Meet our very first free tutorial of the year 2020- A Corset Offshoulder asymmetric dress.
The end of 2019 was a season of Corsets by the way. If you are a Nigerian fashion designer, you will agree with me that these days, if your asoebi outfit isn’t dramatic or have so much going-on on it, then you haven’t arrived at all. We have literally thrown simple designs out of the window. We’ve become bolder, adventurous and daring with designs. These days, the bigger and fluffier your sleeves are, the better; the more dramatic your outfit, the more attention you give.
And of course, as a tailor, seamstress or fashion designer, you really do not want to be left out. It’s important you know these things and be ready to make them when you get called upon.
For us here on TheQEffectz, we believe its a time for Intermediates; a time to growth and expand.
As an international customer or visitor of TheQEffectz, I think it’s time for you to throw all those simple and boring sewing patterns of yours away and get with the African program of making adventurous and daring outfits. As a matter of fact, I’m challenging you to it.
I remain your one and only sew anchor/ tutor- Quincy Kanayo, ready to take you on the drive. So please do not hesitate to ask any questions you have about this tutorial on the comment box below.
Hopefully by the end of the tutorial, you will be able to make even similar outfits like these:
NOTE: Because the tutorial is a step by step guide on how to make a pattern for the photo of interest, the tutorial is quite long. In order to easily navigate through it, simply use the Table of Content Tab below. Easily navigate to interested areas of the tutorial by clicking on the titles below.
ABOUT THE OUTFIT
By the way, I stumbled on our photo of interest on Pinterest. I literally ransack the internet looking for the true owner of the photo because I wanted to give the designer of the outfit his or her due credit. Besides the fact that they deserve it, it was the right thing to do. As a fashion designer and blogger, I totally understand what it means for your work to be republished without consent or due credit. It’s the price of Internet. However, to me, it’s important that credit goes to whom it is due.
So please if you are the true owner of this work of art, please contact us so that we can do the needful.
Thank you for your understanding-Quincy Kanayo
As we do in every tutorial, I dissect the design in my mind and then piece them back together. This way, it helps me understand how to outfit was made. So looking at this outfit, the outfit:
- Has a Corset bodice
- Has Off-shoulder “gathered” sleeves
- Two layer pepia was attached asymmetrically from the highhip to the thighs of the outfit.
- The outfit was obviously made from a woven(non-stretch) fabric. Thus it will need a zipper at the back.
Now that we have a better understanding about the outfit, we can now proceed.
- Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
- Skirt block: A skirt block is also one of the foundation of garment construction. Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here. Just like basic bodice block, you can modify them into any skirt design you want.
- Sleeve block: In this tutorial, you will need your sleeve pattern or block. Don’t know how to draft a sleeve pattern or block, please click here.
- Pattern- papers
- Tracing papers
- Pattern-drafting tools eg. French curves, Straight ruler, Markers/ Pen/Pencil
- Body measurements: Besides the body measurements used to draft your basic bodice, skirt block and sleeve pattern, you will need:
- High Hip Length- This is the distance between your waist and Highhip.
- Under-butt length- This is the distance between the waist and underbutt.
- Bustpoint to UnderBust- This is the distance between the bust point and underbust.
- Low thigh to Ground- This is the distance between your low thigh and the floor.
The entire process of drafting a pattern for this outfit, involves adjusting the basic bodice block, Skirt block and sleeve pattern accordingly.
So this tutorial will be divided into (a) Adjusting the Basic Bodice Block (b)Adjusting the Basic Skirt Block (c) Adjusting the sleeve pattern (d) Drafting the peplum
ADJUSTING THE BASIC BODICE BLOCK
Because both sides of the front bodice is similar, I will be using just one side of front bodice during my modification
Step 1: Trace out your front bodice on a new pattern paper and mark out the various body levels, i.e Upper-bust(UPB), Bust(B), Under-Bust(UNB), Waist(W)
Step 2: At the bust level, measure 1/2 of your bust to bust measurement and mark. In this case, my bust to bust measurement is 7 inches.
1/2 x 7 inches = 3.5 inches.
Step 3: Insert your bust circle. See how to insert bust circle here.
Step 4: Measure half of your bust to bust measurement from the CF line at the Underbust level and mark
Step 5: Insert your Contour Darts as explained here.
Step 6: From the CF line at the bust level, draw a curve to the armhole level as shown below.
Before cutting out what you have drafted, measure to include notches at strategic points. See why this is important here.
Step 7: Cut out your draft as show below
Step 8: Separate bust part 1 & 3 from 2 as shown below.
Step 9: Join 1 &3 together using a cellotape or paper glue.
If this is your first time attempting a corset and you are perhaps wondering what the hell I am doing….lolx.
Well here is what your breast cup will look like when joined together
You can see how well it elevates from the floor to give the bust shape needed for the design.
So typically, you are supposed to join this to the rest part of the front bodice like so:
This is where your notches will play a vital role. To learn more about this or to perhaps see this in action, please click here
Step 10: Redraft every piece and add seam allowances. At the bottom of the each breast cup, add seam of about 1 inch for serve as casing for your boning. Do the same for the top of each front piece.
Do not forget to add back your contour dart at the waist to the each side of the front bodice. Meaning, if your contour dart was 2 inches, add 2 inches to side of your front bodice.
To see all of these in action, please take the full course I have already made on Corset-making. All topics of the course are in Video(.mp4) format.
So now that we are done with the front bodice, we will proceed to back bodice.
Step 11: Trace your back bodice to a new pattern piece.
Step 12: Measure 1.25 inches from the CB line at the neckline and mark. Draw a vertical line to the bottom of the bodice. This will serve as zip allowance since the fabric used to make our outfit of interest is a woven(non-stretch fabric)
Step 13: Because we are making a dress, we will need to contour the centre back line to prevent the outfit from bulging out. To do this, measure 1cm(0.5″) from the centre back line and the zip line and mark.
Step 14: Readjust the CB line and Zip line accordingly
Step 15: Add back the 1cm (0.5″) to the side seam and readjust accordingly.
Step 16: At the bust level from the new CB line, measure 3.5inch and mark
Step 17: Insert a dart, the size of which should be similar with the front bodice. So if your waist/contour dart for the front is 2 inches, ensure that the waist dart for the back is 2 inches also.
Step 18: Because we are creating a corset bodice, the upper part of the back piece must be slashed off. So draw a concave curve from the armpit to the CB at the bust level.
Step 19: Adjust your dart line to meet the new backline
Step 20: Add back the 2 inches dart you included in the back bodice and readjust accordingly
Step 21: Cut through your dart lines to create two parts of the back piece.
Re-draft in a new paper and add seem allowances.
And your Corset bodice is complete.
ADJUSTING THE SKIRT BLOCK
Step 1: Trace the front and back skirt on a new pattern and mark out the various body levels, Waist, Highhip, Hip, Under-butt, lower thigh and knee.
Don’t also forget to include zip allowances to the CB line of the back piece.
Step 2: Fold back the front skirt to equal halves.
Step 3: From the CF at the waist level, measure half of your bust to bust measurement and mark.
Step 4: Insert a dart of 4.5 inches long and 2 inches wide(the same dart width of your bodice)
Step 5: Using your tracing wheel, trace the dart line to the other side of the front skirt.
Don’t forget to add back the dart width to the side seams
Step 6: For the back pieces, Measure 1cm(0.5 inch) from the CB and zip line.
And adjust the CB and zip line accordingly.
Step 7: Add back the 1cm or 0.5inch to the side seam of the back piece
Step 8: From the new CB line, mark and insert your waist dart, the size of which should be 4 inches lone and 2 inches wide(the width of the back bodice waist dart).
Don’t forget to add the dart width to the side seams
Step 9: To contour the skirt to have more fitting at the front and back piece. Measure 1/2 of your thigh circumference and mark at the thigh level of the front piece
And reshape from the hip to the new marks.
For the back pieces, do the same but readjust your side and inseams from the Under-butt level as shown below.
Step 10: From the high-hip to the thigh level, Draw a horizontal line across from the left to right for the front skirt. Do the reverse for the back pieces.
Step 11: At this point you can decide to slash through the asymmetric line or not. For those who do not mind showing off their thighs, feel free to slash off the bottom of both the front and back pieces. But if you are like me that can not dare so much, feel free to leave your pattern just the way it is.
Don’t forget to redraft your pattern in a new pattern paper of course and add ease and seam allowances
DRAFTING THE PEPLUM:
By now I totally want to believe we now know how to draft a peplum right? If you do not, please click here to view my previous tutorial- How to draft a Breast-padded Blouse with Orgami Pleated sleeves.
Step 1: Follow the steps here The length of your peplum should be your Low thigh to Ground
Step 2: From the inner circle, measure 7 inches and mark. Then readjust the circle as shown below
Step 3: Cut through the new line and your peplum will look like this
Step 4: Duplicate the peplum. However your new peplum should be 1 inches longer than the old one.
ADJUSTING THE SLEEVE PATTERN.
Step 1: Fold your sleeve pattern into equal halves. From the armpit, measure how high you want your sleeve to be; 5-7 inches and mark.
Step 2: Draw a curve from the new mark to the Centreline as shown
Step 3: Slash off the tip of the sleeve and place your off-sleeve on a new pattern and trace.
Step 4: Extend the cuff line as shown and the bottom of the sleeve 1.5 X the original length.
Step 5: Cut out what you have traced and you are done.
Now when you join all your pattern pieces together, they’ll look like this:
So you can see guys how extremely easy it is to modify simple basic blocks into absolutely anything you want. The trick is knowing what to do in the first place and I will be delighted to show you in one of our online classes. Simply visit here to register for our intermediate class that will commence June 6th, 2020 to end October 7th, 2020. Registration is already in progress to end May 31st, 2020.
Courses available include:
- Design and Contouring
- Business and Entrepreneurship
Pricing is subject to preferred course. See here to check out the pricing and course outline.
Our classes remain the most affordable with a robust syllabus and outline that will make other online classes hide in shame.
OUR SPECIAL CLASSES
Do you know that we even have classes for Busy mums or dads, Nursing mothers and Students.; A class for literally anyone that lives a busy life? Because we do not want you to give up on your dreams to become that fashion designer or tailor, we’ve made these classes to be more accommodating and flexible than those in the regular session. You get to decide the time and days you want your classes to hold and the time frame for teaching you will be left to whenever you are able to finish.
Now, I don’t know about you but I think this is the best opportunity for you to build, grow and develop your sewing skills. Now, you do not have an excuse whatever.
Our Special classes are opened to only beginners and Intermediates. You can view the course outline, pricing and syllabuses here.
Now before I go, let me quickly point out that you can request for any tutorial you wish to see here or even sewing patterns. Simply visit here to make a request.
So till next time for more free tutorials, kisses!
20 Now to Him who is able to do exceedingly abundantly above all that we ask or think, according to the power that works in us, 21 to Him be glory in the church by Christ Jesus to all generations, forever and ever. Amen. -Ephesians 3:20
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