Hi Sewlover! Okay, so while sewing this outfit, I noticed some errors in the patterns and I’ve corrected them. So please look through the tutorial again and don’t fail to leave any questions you may have about it.
It was an outfit I chose from a lot of others to make for myself for a wedding I’ll be attending tomorrow. I’ll be sharing the pattern-drafting aspect of the outfit with you guys today. If you want to see the sewing tutorial free of charge, then make sure you leave a comment on the comment box below. I”ll like to have about atleast 10 beautiful comments from 10 remarkable people before I’ll grant such a request.
My version in the wedding’s color theme of burgundy & butter gold
Also made a little something for My Prince #winks
Now to the main event
About the outfit
As always, before we begin, I’ll like us to dissect the outfit:
Wondering why I like dissecting outfits and designs? lolx, well it helps me understand the outfit alot better. So feel free to pen down what you notice as you look at the outfit.
Want to learn how to easily dissect styles and outfits so that you can make them for yourself or clients? Or so that you can always stop looking for help from others? Then follow me! or Get mentored by me!
- The outfit is clearly a gown that consists of a breast padded bodice and a six pieces skirt. Although the latter can also pass for a Mermaid skirt
- The upper bodice consists of ruffle sleeves and cape. While the ruffles stretch from the right of the upper bust level to the back the cape extends asymmetrically from one side of the shoulder to the armhole level.
- At the waist, is a high-low peplum boxed with inverted pleats
- The outfit was made from a patterned material, aka ankara and a solid colored material, preferably satin.
- The outfit has a three-quarter net sleeve that is cuffed at the wrist.
- The ruffles consist of a blend of the patterned material and satin.
These are my observations. If you noticed or have more, please kindly share them on the comment box.
By the way, please do note that this tutorial is for Advert sewists. As an intermediate sewist, you can choose to attempt this.
To draft out a pattern for this outfit, you will need the following:
1..Basic Blocks: The relevant blocks for this outfits include A basic bodce block, a Skirt block and A Sleeve pattern. Don’t know how to draft any of these blocks using your body measurements or that of a clients? Then sign up for TheQEffectz Public or Private Classes.
2. Pattern papers
3. Tracing papers
4. Markers, Pen, Pencil and Eraser
5. Straight ruler
6. French curves
7. Body measurements. These include:
- Bust point: The distance between the shoulder and tip of the bust
- Bust to Bust = This is the distance between the tip of one bust to the tip of the other
- Under bust length= This is the distance between the bust point and under the bust
- Thigh circumference= This is the known as the girth of the thigh
- Waist circumference= This is the known as the girth of the thigh
Making a pattern for this outfit will involve modifying the basic bodice block and skirt block. Thus, the procedures will be divided into:
1..Modifying the basic bodice block: This section will be divided into (a) Making the front bodice (b) Making the back pieces
(a) Making the front bodice: To make the front pieces, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Fold your pattern papers into equal halves and draft out the front piece
Step 2: When done, duplicate the front piece. i.e make an exact copy of it.
Name one the patterned fabric you plan to use and the other the solid colored fabric to differentiate them. In this case I named mine “Ankara” and “Satin”
Step 3: Draft your breast padded princess seam on the satin and ankara fabric using a very light pen or pencil or do this at the wrong side of the paper.
To learn more on how to insert breast padded priness seams, please visit here
Step 4: Draw two asymmetric curves from the tip of the shoulder and armhole respectively from left to right on the “Satin piece. The distance between both curves at the armhole should be 5 inches.
Step 5: Replicate the bottom curve on the “Ankara piece”
Step 6: Place the Satin piece on the Ankara piece and mark the center point of the top asymmetric line. Make sure the point is also visible on the ankara piece.
Step 7: Then adjust the neckline of the “Ankara” piece as shown below
Step 8: Slash off the shaded parts of the front pieces
Step 9: For the cape, make sure to fold the dart lines when drafting like this:
Step 10: Add seam allowances to all your pieces. When done, your Satin and Ankara front piece will look like this:
For the sides of bodice, i like to include the same amount of dart/princess seam and an additional 1 inch(incase I add more weight in the future or for when I decide to give out the outfit to a larger size person). For other sides, I like to include a seam allowance of 1 cm.
Step 11(optional): You can go on to include instructions on the pieces if you want your work to look more professional or if your intention is to give the work to someone else(i.e contractor or employee) to sew for you
2. Making the back pieces: This section involves:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and place your back bodice block and trace 1 inch away from the folded side.
This 1 inch will serve as zip allowance.
Step 2: At the waistline, measure 0.5 inch from CB and the same value at the zip allowance and the sides.
Step 3: Adjust the CB line, zip allowance and side accordingly.
This is to prevent the zip that will be attached at the CB from bulging out.
When done, your backpieces will look like this:
Step 4: You can decide to include a cape for your back pieces or not. The choice is yours. If you want to include a back cape, draw an asymmetric line from the tip of the shoulder of the right back piece to the CB line.
Step 5: Repeat step 5 in Making the front piece above
When done, your backpiece will look like this
Step 6: Insert your princess seam from the shoulder
Step 6: Repeat Step 6 in Making the front piece and then trace your pattern on your tracing paper. Don’t forget to include seam allowance
When done, your back pattern will look like this:
And that is it. Pattern for the bodice of the outfit.
We will now proceed to the skirt part
2. Modifying the skirt block. This is literally similar to the skirt block. However, I’ll be using the backpieces of the skirt block to elucidate. Kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper, and place your skirt on it 1.5 inches away from the folded line. Trace all the sides.
Step 2: Adjust the zip allowance just like the back bodice above
Step 3: Place the back pieces on top a new paper and trace all the sides.
Step 4: At the thigh level, measure 1/4 of thigh measurement and mark.
Step 5: Extend the length of the skirt to the full length of skirts. Extend the side from the knee level by 5-7 inches long
Also include a hem distance of 1″ -1.5 inches and adjust the hem of the skirt accordingly.
Step 6: If your intention is to make a mermaid skirt instead( like me), you can proceed to adjusting your front pieces of the skirt accordingly. But if your intention is to slash your skirt pattern further into six pieces, please click here to learn how.
3. Drafting the High-low pleated peplum: To do this, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Cut out a pattern paper of (1/2 of waist girth- 1/8 of waist girth) in width and 10 inches in length
Step 2: Make out several slash points on the paper.(click here to learn more about Slash & Spread)
Then draw an asymmetric curve from right to left. The curve should begin at 4 inches
Step 3: Then slash off the leftovers at the bottom and the slash points. Leave about 0.5cm at the top unslashed at your slash points(see here to learn more)
Step 4: Then Spread and readjust accordingly
Step 5: Mark out where you want your pleats and pleat accordingly
4. Drafting the Sleeve Pattern: See here to learn how to draft a sleeve pattern
When done, your sleeve pattern will look like this
Adjust the sleeve following these steps:
Step 1: Measure the armhole of your bodice including the cape at the front piece
Step 2: Mark these measurements from the bottom of the sleeve to the top
Step 3: Since the sleeve of the outfit is going to be a net sleeve, you will need a band around the top and cuff of the sleeve. Therefore to cut a band pattern for the top and bottom of the sleeve.
For the top, measure 3 inches from the top and mark
Replicate the curve at the top
Step 4: Get a new pattern paper and trace the curves
Step 5: Add seam allowances of 1cm around the bands and sleeve and then cut. When done, your new sleeve pattern will look like this:
5. Drafting the ruffles: Cut out a pattern paper about twice the distance between the upper bust level at the front piece and the back piece.
Don’t forget to include seam allowances around the strip for hemming.
So that’s it guys!.
Remember you can see how this style is sewn for free by simply leaving a comment of your thoughts about the outfit or to simply share your own ideas at the comment box below.
Interested in learning how to sew from scratch instead? then simply sign up for TheQeffectz public class which is opened round the year or our private class for beginner and intermediates.. We have so many options to help you.
Interested in getting a tutorial for a particular design and style? then simply visit here to make a sew request now.
So till next time, when i’ll be showing you the outfit, kisses!
No one can live the Christian life or do God’s work without the Holy Spirit, for it’s written, “…Not by might, nor by power, but by my spirit, saith the LORD of hosts”Zechariah 4:6
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