So my birthday is like a week from today and this year, I’m a little bit excited because it’s not everyday a girl clocks 30, right?lolx
Menh! It’s still unbelievable that I’ll be 30 years old soon. I mean wow! God is indeed great.
Well right now, I don’t know if I’ll be celebrating the day or not because as usual, my birthday will fall on a weekday(#rollseye and they wonder why I am a workaholic) so I’ll be at work.
But just incase I do, make sure you stay in the loop by following me on instagram @ QuincyKanayo or on facebook @ Quincy Kanayo Okojie.
By the way, it was in this mood of excitement that I bumped into this outfit designed by Elisabetta Franchi. It was one of her most iconic outfits from the 2017-2018 Spring Lookbook collection and I’m in awe of the outfit
Photocredit: Elisabetta Franchi
As you can see, it’s a classic and yet edgy outfit that is both formal and casual at the same time.
Anyway, I decided I’ll just throw a pattern-drafting tutorial on it so we can have an idea how to cut it for either ourselves or clients. If you want to see the sewing tutorial, simply leave a comment below and I’ll see what I can do.
By the way, don’t forget to invite your friends to join us here or via any of our social media @theqeffectz on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. We need your help on this to grow. So if you want to keep seeing free tutorials and to keep us in existence, please share this post using any of the social media share button below at the bottom of this page.
Now, with no further ado, let’s get down to today’s tutorial. And as always, we will begin by analyzing the outfit.
ABOUT THE OUTFIT
- The outfit consist of two front bodices- a jacket and a wrap bodice
- The Jacket front piece consists of a regular dart and a flap welt pocket
- The Jacket piece is held together to the second bodice piece with the help of a a band/belt and a button
- The jacket has a collar that runs asymmetrically as a cape from the front neckline to the back pieces
- The jumpsuit has an invisible side zipper
- The second bodice was demarcated at the upper bust level thus creating two pieces- shoulder piece and lower bodice piece.
- The back pieces are most likely darted using princess seam from the armhole
- The trousers part has pleated darts at the waist
So with all these established, let it be known that this tutorial is for Advanced Sewist only. As an intermediate sewist you can choose to experiment. However, do note that it will take more than knowing how to sew to make such a beautiful outfit. You will need to know how to sew neatly, how to press and iron neatly as well, to make such an outfit look this good.
So goodluck if you intend to attempt making this outfit
To draft a pattern for this outfit, you will need the following:
- Basic bodice block( Don’t know how to draft a basic bodice block? Please click here to download our free pattern-drafting tutorial)
- Basic trousers block( Don’t know how to draft a basic trousers block? Please click here to sign up for TheQEffectz Pattern-drafting course for Beginners)
- Pattern papers
- Tracing papers
- Body statistics. This includes
- Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape around your bust and measure the girth of it.
- Waist circumference: Place your measuring tape around your waist. Using me as an example, my waist circumference is 34 inches
- Upper bust level: This is the distance between your shoulder and the top of your bust.
- Bust level: This is the distance between your shoulder and your bust point
To make a pattern for this outfit, this tutorial will be divided into:
- Making the front jacket pattern
- Making the Wrap bodice pattern
- Making the back piece pattern
- Making the trousers pattern
- Making the collar cape
- Making the sleeve pattern
- Making the flap pocket pattern
- Making the belt or band
THE FRONT JACKET PATTERN
To make the front jacket pattern, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Trace out your basic bodice on a fresh piece of pattern paper as Bodice 1 and extend the length to 3 inches below the hip level.
Step 2: Extend the Center front line to about an inch as shown below
This will serve as your placket
Step 3: The placket line even further by an inch.
This will serve as your lapel. At this point, you can decide how super wide you want your lapel to be. The more inches you extend the placket, the wider your lapel will be.
Step 4: Draw a concave curve from the new point to the waist line.
Also at this point, you can decide where you want your lapel to stop i.e at bust level, waist or even hip level.
But as you can see from our cover photo, that the lapel stopped at the waist level.
Step 5: Measure the distance between the hip level and hem and mark the midpoint.
Step 6: Draw a curve from that point to the new centre front line. Then don’t forget to fit your bodice using your body measurements or that of a clients.
See how to do this here
Step 7: Insert regular darts(see more here)
Step 8: Insert a flap welt pocket at the high hip level(see more here)
Step 9: Trace this pattern on a fresh piece of pattern pattern. Also trace a facing for it.
Don’t also forget to include seam allowances of 0.5inch round the jacket facing and jacket as well. However, instead of 0.5 inch seam for the side of the jacket, include a seam allowance of 1.5inch to accommodate for the dart and stitch allowance
And the pattern for your Jacket piece is done
THE WRAP BODICE PATTERN
To make the wrap bodice pattern, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Trace your basic bodice block on a new pattern paper to create Bodice 2
Step 2: Mark out the various relevant bodice levels- bust, and waist
Step 3: Extend the side of this bodice by 1.5 inch
This is to serve as zip allowance
Don’t forget to remove 0.5 inches from both sides of the zip allowance
This is to prevent the zipper from bulging out at the side of the jumpsuits at the waist
Step 4: Adjust the neckline to a V’ neckline
Step 5: From the shoulder, measure the upper bust level(see requirement) and mark.
Draw a horizontal line across that point.
Step 5: At the bust level, measure 1 inch below the bust level and mark
Step 6: Insert princess seam from the shoulder(See here to learn more).
Step 7: Adjust the neckline and armhole of the bodice piece by measuring 2 inches from the neck of the shoulder and 2 inches from the end of the shoulder
Step 8: At the center front line, measure 3 inches to the front and mark
Step 9: The draw a slant line to join the neckline to this new point
Step 10: Then just slash through all that you have traced
Step 11: Trace every part on a fresh piece of pattern paper and add seam allowances of 0.5 inch around all the parts except the armhole piece.
For the armhole piece, add 1.5 inch around the armhole and the sides of the piece to accommodate for the slash.
When done, the wrap pattern will look like this
THE BACK PIECES OF THE BODICE
To draft patterns for the back pieces of the bodice, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper in equal halves and trace the back piece of your basic bodice block on it.
Add 1 inch to the bottom of the pattern
Step 2: Slash through the center back line to create two back pieces
Step 3: Add a zip allowances of 1.5 inches to the side of one of the back pieces that corresponds with the front piece with zip allowance(see making the Wrap piece)
Don’t also forget to slant in the zip allowances at the waistline like you did in the wrap piece
Step 4: Place the two back pieces together and draw a curve from neck of the shoulder of one of the back pieces to the bust level of the other.
Step 5: Then just like you did for the shoulders of the wrap piece, adjust the shoulder and neckline the back piece 2 by measuring 2 inches away from the neck of the shoulder and 2 inches away from the end of shoulder
Step 6: Insert a princess seam from the armhole for both pieces
Don’t know how to insert a princess seam from the armhole, please click here
Step 7: Then slash through all that you have drafted
Step 8: Trace every part on a fresh piece of pattern paper and add seam allowances of 0.5 inch around all the parts except the armhole piece.
For the armhole piece, add 1 inch seam allowance around the armhole and the sides of the pieces to accommodate for the slash.
When done, the back pieces pattern will look like these
THE TROUSERS PATTERN
To draft patterns for the trousers pattern of this outfit, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and draft the front piece of your basic trouser’s block on it.
Repeat the same for the back pieces
When done, you’ll have two front pieces and two back pieces
Step 2: Adjust one of the front pieces corresponding with the wrap piece.
Include a zip allowance of 1.5 inches to the side about 7-8 inches
Do the same for the corresponding back piece
COLLAR CAPE PATTERN
To make the collar cape pattern for the outfit, please follow the steps below:
Step 1: Join your jacket pattern and two back pieces together at the shoulder
Step 2:Measure 3 inches of the collar from the placket line to the bust level of the back pieces and draft on a fresh piece of pattern paper
When done, your collar cape will look like this
Step 3: Add 0.5 inch seam allowance round the cape piece
And your collar cape pattern is done
To make a sleeve pattern for this outfit, please hit the play button above to learn how to draft a basic sleeve pattern or visit click the buy now button below to download a pdf tutorial on how to draft the various types of sleeves and also how to cut the perfect armhole i.e basic sleeve, shirt sleeve, raglan sleeve,peplum sleeve, tulip sleeve, cap sleeve and so on.
When done, your three-quarter sleeve should look this
Make sure to tip the cap of the sleeve and narrow the armscye so that it will sit without any extra allowance on your jacket.
Don’t also forget to include 0.5 inch seam allowance around the sleeves and a facing of 1.5 inches.
FLAP WELT POCKET PATTERN.
Step 1: Draft out the flat welt pocket from the jacket pattern.
Step 2: Include a seam allowance of 0.5 inch around the pocket.
BTW, You will be cutting 4 pieces of this, not 2.
To learn more on how to insert a flap welt pocket, please click here to download our existing video tutorial on HOW TO MAKE AN ANKARA BLAZER JACKET WITH FLAP WET POCKETS.
THE BAND OR BELT
So whether you decide to include a band or belt pattern is totally up to you. Honestly, I think both will work, but nevertheless, I think I will leave this for discussion.
Which do you think will work better with this outfit? A belt from the center back to the centre front or a band? Don’t forget the side zipper by the way.
Please leave your thoughts on the comment box
To make a band or belt, simply follow the steps below.
Step 1: Trace 2.5 inches of band above the waistline of the trousers piece.
Step 2: Add 0.5 inch seam allowance around the band.
And that is it sew lover!
The pattern-drafting tutorial on how to make this outfit.
Remember that if you want to see the video tutorial on how to sew this together, then please leave a comment on any of the comment boxes below. Don’t also hesitate to ask any questions you may have on the comment box.
So till next time on more free tutorials, kisses!
“Confess your sins to each other and pray for each other so that you may be healed. The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.”- James 5:16 NLT
To get new updates, post and ridiculous freebies/gifts delivered to your mailbox, please enter your email address in the box below to subscribe. Subscription is free!
PHONE NUMBER: 08030971467