Welcome to today’s free tutorial as requested by Betty Beam.
I am so sorry I am bringing this tutorial late ma’am. As already mentioned here, we are currently working on our website. So all hands are on deck including mine.
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Now before we begin, I’ll quickly like to say that this tutorial is for Advanced sewists. Thus, if you wish to attempt to make this dress, you must have already obtained some beginner and intermediate sewing knowledge and experience.
Don’t have any of that? Then enroll for our Beginner and Intermediate classes today. Visit here to enroll now.
Now, as you all know, before I embark on drafting a pattern for any outfit, I dissect the outfit first in my mind. This way, I’ll be able to figure out how to piece it back together.
About the outfit
- This outfit was made from a sturdy, sheer, lace and net fabric
- This outfit is a bell dress. For those that do not know, a bell dress is a dress that has a peplum or circular flare attached to the bottom of its straight upper skirt part.
- This outfit is breast-padded. And the breast-padded method used is what is known as the shoulder princess seam.(To learn more about the various methods of breast-padding, please click here)
- The outfit is hip padded(To learn how to pad the hips of any outfit, please join TheQEffectz Sew community and then visit the media section of the group page.
- This outfit has a cape. (To learn more about capes, please click here)
- This outfit is embellished.
So with all that out of the way, we can now confidently create a pattern for it using the features we have listed out about the outfit.
To create a pattern for this outfit, you will need the following
- Bust circumference. Using me as an example, my bust circumference is 38 inches
- Thigh measurement: Using me an example, my thigh measurement is 40 inches
- Straight & French curve rulers
- Hip curve ruler
- Paper/Masking tape
Because this outfit consists consists majorly of a bodice, skirt and peplum, drafting a pattern for it will include:
- Adjusting the bodice block
- Adjusting the straight skirt
- Inserting peplum
- Drafting sleeves
- Drafting cape
Adjusting the Bodice Block
To adjust the basic bodice block, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Begin by marking out all the various body levels on the bodice block. eg. Bust, under bust, Waist
Step 2: From the Center-front line at the bust level, measure your 1/2 of your bust to bust measurement and mark
Step 3: Then from the base of the shoulder, measure 2.5 inches towards the tip of the shoulder and mark.
Step 4: Then connect the points to the bottom of the bodice.
Step 5: At the Under Bust level, measure 1 inch at both sides of the princess seam and mark as shown below.
Step 6: Then at the shoulder, measure 1 inch as well at both sides of the princess seam and mark
Connect the lines to the bust
To learn more on how to draft a shoulder princess seam to create a breast padded bodice, please click here
Step 7: Repeat the process for the back piece as shown below
Step 8: Since one side of the back piece has a slash on one shoulder, slash the shoulder to the bust level.
Step 9: As we have often said during our tutorials, whatever is slashed should be added back. Since we will be slashing off 0.5-2 inches from both the front and back pieces, add these inches back to the pieces respectively
Step 10: When do, your front pieces will look like these
And your back pieces, should look like these
Adjusting the Skirt block
To adjust the skirt block, please follow the steps below
Step 1: Mark out the relevant skirt levels on the skirt block
Step 2: From the Centre Front and Centre Back of both the front and back piece respectively, measure 1/2 of your bust to bust measurement and mark.
Step 3: Insert your waist darts. The dart for the front piece should be 4inches long while that for the back piece should be 5.5 inches long. The width of both darts should be 1 inch.
Step 4: Measure 1/4 of your thigh measurement at the thigh level and mark
Using me as an example(see requirement), my thigh measurement is 40 inches.
40inches/ 4 = 10 inches.
Step 5: Reconnect the hip line to the thigh measurement and then to the bottom of the skirt
Step 6: Cut out what you have drafted. When done your skirt front and back pieces will look like these:
Drafting the Peplum
Peplum as already known are circular flares made from square blocks.
Step 1: Get a new pattern paper. Fold twice.
Step 2: Insert two arcs. One at the point of intersection and the other at the hem. The distance between the two arcs should equal the length of the waist- to-ankle measurements and 1.5 inches as hem allowance.
The length of the small arc should equal 1/4 of the knee circumference +0.5inch for ease
Step 3: Extend the original skirt length(bigger arc) at the folded area to about 5 inches.
Step 4: Cut out what you have traced.
When you open up your peplum, it will look like this
You will notice that one side of the peplum looks higher than the side directly opposite it.
Make the shorter part your front piece and the longer part, your back piece
Drafting the sleeves
To learn how to draft sleeves, please click here. Also see here to learn how to make the various types of sleeves.
When done your sleeves should look like this
Drafting the cape.
From the cover photo, you can see the outfit consists of a big and smaller cape. There, we will need to duplicate our basic bodice.
Then to draft the cape, kindly follow the steps below
Step 1: Get a new pattern paper
Step 2: Attach the shoulder of the centre front and centre back pieces together using a masking or paper tape and place them on the new pattern paper
Draft the cape like so
Step 3: Cut out what you have traced and your bigger cape will look like this
Step 4: Repeat step 1 to 2 above
Step 5: Then draft the smaller cape like so
Then repeat step 3 above.
And you are done
So you can see how easy you can manipulate basic blocks to achieve almost anything. To learn more on how to do this, you can either enroll for our online classes .
So that’s it sew lover.
I want to thank you so much for hanging with me. Feel free to drop any questions you have on the comment box below.
Don’t forget that we are currently still super busy trying to upgrade our site. So please bear with us if we are not so quick to respond to your mails, requests or questions. We can however assure that we will respond to them as soon as we can.
So till next time for more free tutorials….kisses!
“Dear friend, I pray that you may enjoy good health and that all may go well with you, even as your soul is getting along well.”- 1 John 1:2
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