HOW TO MAKE A CORSET/BUSTIER PATTERN

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Here is a review of our previous tutorial: How to make a Corset Pattern; requested by Boyo Temitope.
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Now to the main event

What is a Corset?

A Corset is a garment worn to hold and train the torso into a desired shape for aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or with a more lasting effect). Both men and women are known to wear corsets, though this item was for many years an integral part of women’s wardrobes.

Since the late 20th century, the fashion industry has borrowed the term “corset” to refer to tops which, to varying degrees, mimic the look of traditional corsets without acting as them. While these modern corsets and corset tops often feature lacing or boning and generally imitate a historical style of corsets, they have very little, if any, effect on the shape of the wearer’s body. Also corsets are now usually worn beneath wedding dresses and are now imitated in what is now popularly known as waist trainers. However, genuine corsets are usually made by – corset-makers and are frequently fitted to the individual wearer.

Requirement:

1. Super wide Pattern Paper: Six super wide pattern papers and these could be newspaper, cardboard or scrap fabrics.
2. Already made blouse: This will serve as reference
3. Pen/pencil/marker
4. Measuring tape and ruler
5. Tracing wheel

PROCEDURE

In today’s tutorial, we are going to be looking at how to make a corset pattern with and without breast cups. Thus this tutorial will be divided into How to make a corset (1)Without breast cups (2) With breast cups.

(1) Without breast cups: To make a corset pattern without breast cups, you will begin by making the front and back pieces. Thus this section will be divided into (a) Making the front piece and (b)making the back pieces (c) Making the ‘corset’

(a) Making the front piece: To make the front piece, begin by folding one of your pattern paper into two equal halves. Then place the front of your blouse (which should also be folded in equal halves with its sleeves either tucked in or cut off) on top on the pattern paper (with the folded area aligned together).

 

Then using your pen, pencil or marker, trace out the sides of the blouse including its neckline an inch away from the already-made blouse. This is to accommodate for stitch/seam allowance. When done, your pattern paper (still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

When you open it up, it will look like this:

(b) Making the Back pieces: Repeat the process at Making the front piece but make the neckline higher than the front piece. When done your back piece (still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

Cut through the folded line to create two pieces. When you open them up, they will look like these:

(c) Making The “Corset”: To make the corset, the front and back pieces of your pattern will need to be adjusted. Thus this section will be divided into Making the corset for (i) the front piece and (ii)back pieces

(i) Front piece: To make the corset for front piece, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: fold back the front piece into equal halves and mark out the various dimensions:
1. Bust
2. Under bust
3. Body/Waist
4. Abdomen
5. Hip


Step 2: From the underbust at the folded area, measure 1/8 of your bust statistics. For the sake of this tutorial we will assume the bust width is 34 inches. 34 inches divided by 8 gives 4.25 inches. Therefore from the folded area, at the underbust region, measure 4.25inches towards the unfolded side and mark. Like this:

Step 3: From that mark, make a dart towards the bottom of the blouse. Like this.

 

See more about how to draft a straight dart, here

Step 4: Then extend the first line of the dart towards the neck line, like this.

Step 5: Then at the shoulder, measure the mid-shoulder and mark. A mid-shoulder is the half length of the shoulder. Then from the mid-shoulder point, draw a line to meet the second dart at the bottom of the blouse. Like this

Step 6: A corset usually does not have shoulder or arm. Therefore to eliminate this, mark out your upper bust region.

 

Then reshape your pattern. Also, make sure the sloper at the bottom of the pattern is reshaped as shown in the diagram below.

Step 7: Cut off the upper part and excess sloper your pattern will look like this:

Step 8: Cut through your darts and each sides of your pattern will look like these.

 

 

Reshape the bust points by placing both patterns in new pattern papers. Trace out the sides and then recurve the bust points as shown below.

 

 

This will help give your busts the desired shape.
When done, your front pieces will look like these.

 

When you unfold the middle piece, your front pieces will look these:

(ii) Back pieces: To make the corsets for back piece, kindly follow the steps below:

Step 1: Place your pieces in equal halves and mark out the back darts(see more on how to draft back darts for back pieces, here). When done, your back pieces(in equal halves) will look like this.

Step 2: Then measure out the mid-shoulder as explained above(See Step5 in Making the Corset for front piece).

Step 3: Then draw a slant line to join the mid-shoulder mark to meet the back dart as shown below:


Step 4: Just as explained Step 6 and 7, draw a horizontal line at the upper bust level and readjust the sloper at the bottom and cut off the upper part and the excess sloper. When done, your back pieces(still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

 


Step 5: Cut through your dart by starting from the first dart line towards the upper dart as shown below. When done, your back piece will be in two parts.

 

 

It is not necessary to readjust the points made. Simply leave them the way they are and when you open up your back pieces, they will look like these.

(2) With breast cups: Making a corset with breast cups is slightly complicated but I’ll do my best to elucidate as simply as I can and I’m sure that if you follow me one step at a time, you’ll have no problem understanding it. Thus this section will be divided into (a)Making the front piece, (b) Making the back piece and (c) Making the corset

(a) Making the front piece: Repeat the same procedure as(1a) making a front piece without breast cups. Your front piece(still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

 

When opened up, it will look like this:

(b) Making the back pieces: Repeat the same procedure as(1b) making a back pieces without breast cups. Your back piece(still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

 

Cut through the folded area to create two pieces. When opened up, they will look like these:

(d) Making the “Corset”: To make the corset, just like making a corset without breast cups, the front and back pieces of your pattern will need to be adjusted. Thus this section will be divided into Making the corset for (i) the front piece and (ii) back pieces

(i) Front piece: To make the corset for front piece, kindly follow the steps below:

Step 1: Fold back your front piece into equal halves. Readjust the sides by adding 2-2.5 inches. When done, your new front piece(still folded in equal halves) will look like this:

 

Step 2: Mark out the following dimensions:
1. Bust
2. Under bust
And then trace on of your breast cups on it, making sure the circle ends at the underbust level. Like this

Step 3: Then measure the distance between the upper bust and the tip of the bust. For the sake of this tutorial, we will assume the distance is 3 inches. Then from the top of the circle made, measure the 3 inches and mark.

Step 4: Find the mid shoulder at the shoulder and mark. Then, draw a line to join the mid shoulder point and the bust point. Extend the line to the bottom of the pattern.

Step 5: Make a dart of 0.5 inch at both side of the straight line, stopping at the edge of the circle as shown in the diagram above.

Step 6: Then at that point, make also a 0.5 inch at both side of the straight line to meet the bust point as shown below.

Step 7: Repeat the above step for the rest of the dart line.

Step 8: From the neckline, draw a slant line from the neckline to the bottom of the pattern as shown below:

Step 9: Repeat the process of creating 0.5 inch dart at the edge of the circle to the end of the dart line.

Step 10: Make a princess seam(See more about princess seam here) by drawing a horizontal line to join the bust point to the folded area. Measure 4.25” along the armscye(armhole) and mark.

 

Then make a 0.5 inch dart on both sides of the line as already explained.
When done your front piece will look like this:

 

Now, I know our front piece is looking a little bit confusing with so many darts but stay with me. Soon you’ll see the point to all of these.

Step 11: With your pen, shape out your corset like this:

Step 12: Cut off the upper part and reshape the sloper at the bottom of the corset. When done, your corset pattern(still in equal halves) will look like this:

 

When you clean off the darts in between the red lines, your corset will look like this:

 

When you unfold it, it will look like this
Now I’m sure it  looks  better, doesn’t it?

Step 13: Cut out your corset patterns like this:

 

(ii) Making the back piece: repeat the process(1C(iii) )in making a corset without breast cups. When done, your back pieces will look these.

 

And you are done

 

Pattern for Making Corset(With and without breast cups)

 

Summary

WITHOUT BREAST CUPS

FRONT PIECES
BACK PIECES
WITH BREAST CUPS
FRONT PIECES
BACK PIECES

DOWNLOAD THIS TUTORIAL

I hope the tutorial was well explanatory. Please don’t forget to leave whatever questions you may have on our comment box. Looking forward to reading from you.
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11 thoughts on “HOW TO MAKE A CORSET/BUSTIER PATTERN”

  1. Thanks a zillion.but my question is about d darts…u said clean off…u said folding…what do we need d dart for?what do we do with it,?are we to cut d dart or gold for d effect of it.am confused please and it’s urgent.thanks in anticipation for d answer……

    1. Quincy Kanayo

      Hi Sean. Sorry Im just seeing this. I hope its not too late. Well, darts are generally used for fitness and they can be folded(regular darts) or cut through(princess seam). In the case of corsets, the darts are usually cut through(as princess darts) to create seams inorder for plastic bones to sit.

  2. Muibudin Habeebat Tolulope

    I found the first tutorial explanatory but the second got confusing at a point…. But I will still try to go through to understand better Thanks for sharing ur knowledge

    1. Quincy Kanayo

      You are welcom Habeebat. Don’t worry, We’ll be making a video soon on how to sew a corsets….then i’m sure you’ll understand better. So make sure you still around by subscribing to our blog

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