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What is a waistcost?
A waistcoat often called a vest, is a sleeveless upper-body garment. It is usually worn over a dress shirt and necktie and below a coat as a part of most men’s formal wear. It is also sported as the third piece in the traditional three-piece male business suit. However, nowadays, female now wear it for formal occasions or business-like events.
A waistcoat has a full vertical opening in the front, which fastens with buttons or snaps. Both single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats exist, regardless of the formality of dress, but single-breasted ones are more common. In a three piece suit, the cloth used matches the jacket and trousers. Waistcoats can also have lapels or revers depending on the style.
However, in this tutorial, I’ll be showing us how to make a simply waistcoat pattern without lapels/revers for both male and female.
- Three super wide pattern paper: this could be scrap paper, brown paper, fabric, newspaper. Etc.
- Shirt/ blouse pattern: see here to learn how to make basic blouse pattern for clients. For beginners, your already made shirt or blouse will suffice as a template.
- Body statistics: The body statistics required are:
- Chest/bust : place your measuring tape round your/client’s chest or bust and measure the circmference.
- Shoulder length: place the measuring tape at the back of your/client’ s neck and measure from one end of the shoulders to the other.
To make a waistcoat pattern for both male and female, this tutorial will be divided into
- Making a waistcoat for males.
- Making a waist coat for females.
How to make a Male Waistcost
This involves (a) Making the front pieces (b) Making the back piece (c) Inserting darts. (d) Adjusting for the “waistcoat” (e) Inserting pockets
With the dotted lines indicating folding.
N:B Plackets are openings or slits in a garment, covering fastenings or for access to a pocket, or the flap of fabric under such an opening. They used to fastening buttons to a front shirt, jacket of coat.
And then trace all the sides of the old front pattern onto the pattern paper. Your new pattern paper will look like this:
From your dart level at the dotted line, measure (1/4 of your chest circumference). For the sake of this tutorial, let’s assume I’m a man. My chest measurement is 34 inches.
¼ x 34 inches = 4.25 inches.
Therefore, measure 4.25 inches from the front of the dart level and mark.
Then make your dart lines towards the bottom of the front piece.
With your tracing wheel, trace the lines to the other side of your pattern paper.
Then measure 3 inches upwards from the hip level and mark.
Then draw a line to join your new point and the dart point at the hip level.
Do the same also from the dart point at the hip level to the abdomen, as shown
And so, adjusting for the waistcoat for your front piece is done.
At the abdomen level, measure 2 inches above the level and mark. Then trace duplicate the 5 inches pocket at the chest level.
Cut out what you have traced as well at the folded area of your plackets and your front pieces(now two) will look like these
Unfold your back piece and it will look like this.
MAKING A FEMALE WAISTCOAT PATTERN
To make a female waistcoat pattern, repeat all the processes in how to make a male waistcoat but use a female blouse pattern if you are making a pattern for a client (see here to learn how to make a basic blouse pattern for clients). If you are beginner, simply use your blouse pattern as already explained in Section A and B in how to make a male waistcoat pattern.
But unlike male waistcoat pattern where regular darts were used to add a little shape to the pattern, in a female waistcoat, we are going to use one of the basic slash and reduce methods in pattern-making to add shape to the waistcoat- Princess seam. See more on Slash and Spread/Reduce here.
So to insert princess seam from the shoulders, at the bust level, measure (1/4 of your bust measurement) and mark. Using me as an example, this will be 4.25inches.
Then measure the midpoint of your shoulder and mark.
Draw a line to join the mid point at the shoulder and the dart point the bust level.
For the back piece, make a armhole princess seam, see how this is done here.
Then. follow the same procedures in Section D, to adjust your blouse to a waistcoat.
When done, also follow section E in how to make a male waistcoat to see how to insert pockets.
Then cut through your princess seams.
And your waist coat pattern will look this.
Pattern for female waistcoat
“And the LORD spake unto Moses, saying, Send thou men, that they may search the land of Canaan, which I give unto the children of Israel: of every tribe of their fathers shall ye send a man, every one a ruler among them. And Moses by the commandment of the LORD sent them from the wilderness of Paran: all those men were heads of the children of Israel.” Numbers 13:1-3
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