Welcome to this week’s tutorial: How to make a perfect Shirt collar and Stand.
This tutorial is for Intermediates and it is a prerequisite to our upcoming sewing tutorial: How to make/sew a Shirt Dress as requested by Aina Bello.
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10. How to Sew A Sixpieces dress
Our newest addition is an e-pattern for Female Shirt. Also included in this downloadable are instructions on how to print and assemble this pattern to make sewing easier for you. It is available in Size 2,4,6,8,10,12,16,18 and you only need an A-4 paper to print it out. So if you are interested in simply tracing out the pattern of a female shirt in any size, please click here to purchase the E-pattern. It costs $1.00 which is equivalent to N480.
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A shirt collar is the part around the neck of a shirt sewn either upright or turned over. It is made up of two basic components: The stand which serves as a band and the Leaf. The stand serves as the point where the collar is folded.
What is the purpose of collar stand?
The stand of a collar helps the collar to either stand upright on the neck or fold over. Stand/band height (front and rear) is integral to a proper collar fit, no matter the garment.
1. Super wide Pattern Paper: This could be scrap paper or fabric, newspaper or cardboard paper.
2. Already-made shirt: This will serve as reference. From the shirt, measure the stand height and the collar height. Like this:
And write them down.
4. Measuring tape and ruler
5. Tracing wheel
1. Joining the front and back pieces of the shirt: To make the collar of any shirt, begin by joining the shoulders of the front and back pieces.
Spread out your front and back pieces and with your measuring tape, measure from the center front piece to the center back piece. Like this:
For the sake of this tutorial, we will assume that the distance between the center front piece and the center back piece is 9 inches.
Then measure the distance between the center back piece and the shoulder. For the sake of this tutorial, we will assure that the distance between center back piece is 4 inches. This will be our shoulder point.
2. Making the collar stand: To make a collar for any shirt, begin by making the collar stand. This process will be divided into steps. Kindly follow each step closely.
Step 1: Fold your super pattern paper into equal halves like this.
Step 2: At the bottom of the pattern paper, beginning from the folded area, measure the distance between the center front piece and the center back piece. In this case, the distance is 9 inches and mark. Like this
Step 3: At the folded area and from the center back, measure the height of the collar stand and mark. In this case, the height of the collar stand is 2 inches.
Step 4: From point of the height of the collar stand, measure 2 inches break and mark. This 2 inches break serves as the folding allowance.
Step 5: Then from the break point, measure the height of the collar leaf. In this case, the height of the collar leaf is 2.5 inches. You can choose however to make it as big and wide as you want by increasing the height.
Step 6: Draw an horizontal line across to meet the vertical line of your center front(as shown in the picture below).
Step 7: From the center front point, measure an inch towards the center back line and mark. This one inch is to accommodate for the front button on the collar.
Step 8: From the front button line made, measure an inch upwards. This one inch serves as a break point- the angle at which the stand will curve.
Step 9: From the break point, measure the height of collar stand and mark, which in this case is 2 inches.
Then from the new point made, draw a horizontal line across to meet the center back line as shown in the photo below.
Step 10: From the center back, measure the distance between the center back piece and shoulder and mark. In this case, the distance is 4 inches. This point will be known as the shoulder point.
Then from this new point, draw a vertical line to meet the collar height point as shown below.
Step 11: Draw a horizontal line from the height of collar stand to meet the shoulder line.
Step 12: Next, From the horizontal line made at the height of collar stand, draw a slight curve(as shown in the photo below) to meet the height of collar stand point at the front button line.
Step 13: Repeat the process by also drawing a slight curve from the shoulder point to the break point at the front button line(as shown in the photo below).
Step 14: Then from the center front line on the bottom curve, draw a curve to meet the top curve, as shown in the photo below.
3. Making the collar leaf: To make the collar lead, duplicate your top curve in reverse over the top curve, like this
Then from the intersection made at the front button line, make a slant line to meet the collar height line.
Clean out the irrelevant lines made and the pattern for your collar and stand(still folded in equal halves) will look like this.
Remember when cutting them out on fabric, you’ll need to cut another collar and stand to serve as undercollar and stand to help ‘turn’ your collar and stand. See more on our next tutorial- How to make a shirt dress which will feature free for only 5 days here on The Q Effectz. So make sure to tell your friends to tell your friends.
So until another time for more sew, diy or patternmaking tutorial, kisses!
“He himself bore our sins” in his body on the cross, so that we might die to sins and live for righteousness; “by his wounds you have been healed.”- I Peter 2:24