How were the holidays? Did you have fun? Did you make anything beautiful during the hols? If you did, don’t forget to upload a photo of it HERE to take part in our September Sewing Competition that is coming up Saturday, 24th September 2016.
Remember that the deadline for submission is Friday, 23rd September 2016 by 11:59pm as voting will commence shortly afterwards. So if you are yet to make something, please quickly go do that now and stand a chance to win something extraordinary from us.
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Now to the main event.
1. A-shaped gown pattern: Download how to make one for yourself here.
2. Fabric of choice: You will need only 2.5 yards of your fabric of choice depending on your body hip width.
3. Body statistics: The following body statistics are required:
(i) Length of shoulder:
(iii) Upper Bust
(iv) Under Bust
(vii) Half length (i.e from shoulder to ‘Above knee’).
(viii) Sleeve length
(ix) Round curve of Sleeves
4. Interface/Gumstain: you will need only ¾ of light gumstain/interface
5. Matching zip: You will need 24 inches matching zip.
6. Matching thread
7. Scissors, ruler and tracing wheel
8. Sewing machine
9. Pressing iron
1. Cutting the A-shape pattern on fabric: Place the pattern for your a-shape gown on your fabric, trace and cut.(Download how to make an A—shape pattern for free here). When done, your cut out fabric folded in equal halves will look like these:
2. Cutting out the lining fabric: If your fabric of choice is transparent, it is important to include a lining fabric. Thus, place your lining fabric on your cutting table and trace both the front and back pieces of your a-shaped gown and cut. When done your lining fabrics will look like these:
3. Adjusting the neckline: You can choose any neckline you prefer. (see here to check out the various neckline for bodice and also see here to learn how to cut out perfect necklines. I wanted my neckline to look like that of a keyhole, that is, a round neck with a “V” cut at the bottom.
So to get this neckline, I folded the front piece back into equal halves and from the folded area, I measured 3.5 inches downwards and curved my neckline, like this.
A neck fly is a piece of fabric identical to the neckline of the front or back piece that is used to turn the neckline outside in. This will not only ensure a perfect neckline finish, it will ensure that the neckline maintains the same shape and curve.
So to make a neck fly, cut out a piece of scrap fabric left, and place your front piece on it. Trace the neckline and then cut, preferably in the same shape as the neckline. When done, the neck fly will look like this.
4. Turning the necklines: This section will be divided into turning the neckline for both (a) Front piece (b) Back pieces.
(a) Front piece: Unlike previous tutorials where all that was required to ‘turn’ the necklines of both the front and back pieces were the lining fabric (See here to check out previous tutorials) this tutorial requires the use of a neck fly. And as earlier explained in the previous step, this is because the neckline for the front piece is more complex and different from the usual scoop or high neck type of neckline. So to ensure that the neckline is turned neatly and accurately, it is important to use a fly.
So to turn the neckline of your front piece correctly, place your front piece-right side up-on your sewing table and then, place your lining fabric wrong side up on top of it.
(b)Back piece: Unlike the front piece where the neckline was a little complex, the neckline for back piece is not, thus it is easy to simply use the lining fabric to turn the neckline. So to do this, place your back piece right side up on your measuring table and then the corresponding fabric on it. Pin the necklines together and then stitch around.
5. Inserting darts: In an A-shaped gown, you can choose to insert regular darts for both the front and back pieces. However, I chose to use breast darts for the front piece and regular darts for the back pieces(read more about darts here). Thus, this section will be divided into inserting darts for both the (a) Front piece and (b) Back pieces
(a) Front piece: As earlier mentioned, I chose to insert breast darts rather than regular darts to the front piece. So to insert breast darts, fold your front piece back into equal halves. Measure 3 inches down from the bust level as shown in the photo below and mark.
(b) Back pieces: Also, as earlier mentioned, I chose to make a regular dart for the back pieces( See how to make regular darts here). When done, my back pieces with darts looked like these.
6. Attaching zipper: To attach zipper, place your two back pieces together with both right sides facing each other. Like this
7. Joining the front and back pieces together: With both your front and back pieces completed, place the back piece-right side up-on your sewing table and then, your front piece, wrong side up on it.
Measure out your body statistics on your front piece.(See here to see how it is done) and pin the sides as well as the shoulders to the back piece.
8. Attaching sleeves: Fold the end of your sleeves half an inch first and then an inch. Like this:
9. Folding the bottom of the dress: With both your sleeves now attached to your A-shaped gown, measure starting from the shoulder, your half-length measurement plus 1.5 inches and mark. Mine is 35 inches. Thus 35 inches plus 1.5inches for folding.
When done, cut off any extra fabric and fold the bottom of your dress half inch at first and then an inch if you do not have an over-lock machine. My dress already had a border so there was no need to fold twice.
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