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7. All Sleeves tutorial (Sewing and Pattern-making tutorial) (Preview/ Download)
1. Five pattern papers: This could be in the form of scrap paper or fabric, brown paper, newspaper or cardboard
2. Body statistics: For this tutorial, you’ll need the following body statistics:
(a) Length of shoulder
(e) Half length,.i.e the distance between the shoulder and the knee
3. Pair of scissors
4. A bodice or already made straight gown
5. Pen or pencil or marker
6. Tracing wheel
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1. Making the dress: You can choose whatever type of dress or even jumpsuit to attach your cape to. However for this tutorial, the type of gown used in the cover picture is what is popularly known as an A-gown or an A-shaped gown(read more about A-gowns here and download the tutorial on how to make an A-shaped gown pattern)
Thus, this section of the tutorial will be divided into (a) Making the front piece (b) Making the back piece(s)
(a) Making the front piece: This section will also be divided into making the front piece for (i)Stretch fabric (ii) Non-stretch fabric.
(i)For Stretch fabric: Fold one of your pattern papers into equal halves and place the front of your already made blouse/gown(which should also be folded into equal halves) on top and trace 1 inch away from the folded area.
If using a blouse, trace from top to the body level and then measure out your half-length(see requirement) to the knee level. Also add 1 inch to the bottom for folding. When done, your front piece will look like this:
(ii) For Non-stretch fabric: Unlike HOW TO MAKE AN A-SHAPED GOWN, where the front pieces of both the stretch and non-stretch fabric were identical, the front piece of non-stretch fabric for a cape dress is not.
Because this is a cape dress which indirectly means that a zipper cannot be inserted at the back piece, it becomes necessary therefore to include a zipper on the side because without a zipper, a dress made from a non-stretch fabric cannot be worn. So the only way to include a zipper for a cape dress made from a non-stretch fabric is to attach it on the side. Thus the front piece must have a zip allowance to accommodate for the zipper.
So to do this, fold your first pattern paper into equal halves and place your already-made blouse/gown and trace 1.5” away from the folded side. This 1.5” will accommodate for both the zip and seam allowance.
If using a blouse as earlier mentioned for stretch fabric, trace from top to bodice and then measure the half length(see requirement above). When done, your front piece still folded in equal halves, will look like this:
(b) Making the back piece(s): Also like making the front piece, this section will be divided into making the back piece(s) for (i)for stretch fabric (ii)Non-stretch fabric
(i) For Stretch fabric: Fold your second scrap paper into equal halves and place your front piece on it. Trace all sides making sure the neckline is 1.5” higher than the front. When done , your back piece still folded into equal halves will look like this:
(ii) For Non-stretch fabric: Fold your second pattern paper into equal halves and place your ‘front piece for Non-stretch fabric’ on it and trace all sides. When done, your back piece still folded into equal halves will look like this:
2. Including darts (for Non-stretch fabric only): This section will also be divided into (i)Making darts for front pieces (ii) making darts for back pieces.
(i) Making darts for front pieces: See how to insert darts in HOW TO MAKE AN A-SHAPED GOWN. When done your front piece still folded in equal halves will look like this:
(ii) Making the dart for the back pieces: Also SEE HOW TO MAKE AN A-SHAPED GOWN. When done your back piece still folded into equal halves will look like this:
3. Making the ‘Cape’: To make the cape, fold your third pattern paper into equal halves. This paper should be super big and super wide. Then duplicate your back piece by making another. Place these two back pieces(each folded back into equal halves) diagonally opposite each other like this:
Mark on the armhole of the back piece(the one standing straight) the length of the back piece(upper one)
Then begin to make an arc measuring that length, starting from the upper back piece like this:
So till next week for another tutorial, kisses!
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